Happiness is a warm pool.
As the birds decline, one Icelandic island keeps throwing a rowdy, boozy puffin festival.
The growth of an immersive universe that is “part game and part soap opera and part shadow economy.”
The writer travels with his father to Iceland and Greenland:
It usually takes a week of traveling with Ed Tower before I’m seized by the tantrum-pitching impulse and can barely resist the urge to punch myself again and again in the face.