Tag: surfing

9 articles

Can Surfing Reprogram the Veteran’s Brain?

An ex-SEAL turns to “ocean therapy” to cope with chronic pain and PTSD.

Previously: The Longform Guide to Surfing

Life's Swell

On surfer girls in Maui; the story that led to the film Blue Crush.


Playing Doc's Games

Surfing San Francisco with a true believer.


Off Diamond Head

Growing up among the tall waves and schoolyard bullies of Hawaii.

Excerpted from Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life.

Heart of Sharkness

A trip to the French island of Réunion to report on a bloody battle between surfers and sharks.


Eddie Is Gone

On surf legend Eddie Aikau and the complicated history of Hawaii.


Malibu's Lost Boys

The underground culture of big waves and wild times in 1961 Malibu, and the gang of teenage boys who worshiped at the feet of the beach’s dark prince, surfing legend and grifter Miki Dora.


The Wave-Maker

In 1998, at age 45, Ken Bradshaw surfed the tallest wave in recorded history.


Last Drop

Nobody knows the full story of why legendary surfer Andy Irons died in a Dallas hotel room earlier this month. But some who knew him have come forward to discuss the demons he’d battled for years.