An ex-SEAL turns to “ocean therapy” to cope with chronic pain and PTSD.Previously: The Longform Guide to Surfing
Growing up among the tall waves and schoolyard bullies of Hawaii.Excerpted from Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life.
A trip to the French island of Réunion to report on a bloody battle between surfers and sharks.
On surf legend Eddie Aikau and the complicated history of Hawaii.
The underground culture of big waves and wild times in 1961 Malibu, and the gang of teenage boys who worshiped at the feet of the beach’s dark prince, surfing legend and grifter Miki Dora.
In 1998, at age 45, Ken Bradshaw surfed the tallest wave in recorded history.