William Finnegan is a New Yorker staff writer and the author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life.
“I suppose in retrospect I was just trying to find out what the world held that nobody could tell me about until I got there. I was a big reader and had a couple of degrees by that point, but there was something out well over the horizon that I wanted to get near and record and understand, and I even felt like it would transform me.”
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