The Longform Guide to Surfing
The sport’s early days, the world’s biggest wave, and the story that inspired Blue Crush.</p>
Off Diamond Head
Growing up among the tall waves and schoolyard bullies of Hawaii.
On surfer girls in Maui: the story that led to the film Blue Crush.
A profile of Ken Bradshaw, who at 45 surfed the tallest wave in recorded history.
A visit to the massive Northern California surf break.
Malibu's Lost Boys
The underground culture of big waves and wild times in 1961 Malibu, and the gang of teenage boys who worshiped at the feet of the beach’s dark prince, surfing legend and grifter Miki Dora.
Riding With the Ghost Dolphin
Getting away from it all in Mexico.
Eddie Is Gone
On surf legend Eddie Aikau and the complicated history of Hawaii.
Heart of Sharkness
A trip to the French island of Réunion to report on a bloody battle between surfers and sharks.
Playing Doc's Games
On surfing, and surfing in San Francisco, and surfing with a San Francisco surfing fanatic.